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July 4, 1996
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Popular climbs in Washington
By Greg Johnston 
SEATTLE POST-INTELLIGENCER REPORTER
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Mount Rainier. Glacier-clad trophy peak of the Northwest, a massive volcano and highest mountain in state at 14,411 feet. Claims more lives than any other Cascade mountain. In 1994, 9,220 people attempted the climb, but only 4,711 made it to the summit, according to Mount Rainier National Park. The climb is daunting and difficult because of rapidly changing weather, active glaciers, altitude and avalanches. Mega-snow and ice on all routes.
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Mount Adams. Curiously, the second-highest peak in the state -- at 12,271 feet -- is not terribly difficult to climb. Ascent via South Spur is a long but nontechnical snow route. Elevation and fast-changing weather demand caution and preparedness. Excellent guided climb for beginners.
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Mount Baker. The westernmost major mountain in the Cascades, this slumbering volcano tops out at 10,781 feet and wears a heavy blanket of ice because of proximity to saltwater (35 miles). Easton Glacier route is moderate, but lined with crevasses. Popular climb, but it requires glacier travel and crevasse-rescue skills. Storms can hit any time.
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Glacier Peak. Beautiful volcano at 10,541 feet, with aesthetic appeal due to long approaches (about 10 miles) through true wilderness. Sitkum Glacier route is straightforward and nontechnical, but fraught with the usual dangers. Its central location in the Cascade range provides an exceptional panoramic view from the summit.
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Mount Stuart. This challenging 9,415-foot chunk of wilderness rock, snow-covered in winter, provides a premier venue for alpine climbs on technical routes, most combining rock and ice. Inexperienced climbers without a guide can forget it.
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Mount Shuksan. This gorgeous 9,127-foot spire of glaciated rock is one of the most-photographed peaks in the Northwest and an appealing climb. It offers four common routes ranging from challenging to nontechnical, the latter relatively easy for a big peak.
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Mount St. Helens. Cropped more than 1,000 feet by the dramatic 1980 eruption, it is now 8,365 feet. Monitor Ridge route is a moderate, nontechnical scramble, on snow in spring, on ash and largely loose lava scree in summer. An excellent trainer for backpackers advancing to alpine routes. Forest Service permit required. Call (360) 750-3961.
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Mount Olympus. The king of the Olympics at 7,965 feet, the triple-peaked and heavily glaciated mountain has high appeal due to a combination of approach through rainforest wilderness and a climbing mix of snow, ice and rock. Not difficult in good weather, but it can be dangerous due to heavily crevassed glaciers and deceptive routes. Weather extremely uncertain; fog can make route-finding a nightmare.
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