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Ferries are great, cheap way to see the sights
By JOHN FLINN
SAN FRANCISCO EXAMINER
The sun was setting behind the golden minarets of Istanbul as we sailed grandly across the Bosphorus, crossing from Asia to Europe.
It was a sight that, in various incarnations, has enchanted and awed travelers since Roman times. But I had another reason to feel giddy: The ride was costing us the equivalent of 24 cents.
This wasn't a fancy sightseeing boat -- it was a regular city ferry carrying rush-hour commuters. At a time when foreign cities seem to gobble up travelers' checks as quickly as you can countersign them, local ferries remains one of the world's greatest travel bargains.
Just about every city built on a harbor, bay or river has them, and they're almost always dirt cheap. In addition to traversing spectacular waterways, they offer an intriguing glimpses into the everyday lives of the people and cities they serve.
Among my favorites:
Istanbul: The ferry across the Bosphorus from Karakoy, on the Europe side, to Haydarpasa, on the Asia side, offers beguiling views of the Aya Sofia, Blue Mosque and Topkapi Palace. It leaves every 15minutes from a dock on the north entrance to the Golden Horn. The round trip takes about an hour and costs $1 (considerably more than I paid seven years ago, but still a bargain.) Note: I understand from the new Lonely Planet guide to Turkey that Istanbul's ferries are about to be privatized, and routes, schedules and fares may change.
Sydney: From Sydney's Circular Quay, a small flotilla of ferries heads out across the harbor past the famed Opera House. A good bet is the one to Manly, a beach community on the cliffs of North Head. Avoid the Jet Cat catamarans, which are too fast for sightseeing. The cheaper Manly ferry moves at a more stately pace, taking 30 minutes for the crossing. Cost: about $2.75 U.S.
Bangkok: The ferries zigzagging up and down the Chao Phraya River aren't great for sightseeing: Surprisingly few of Bangkok's temples and palaces face the river. But in this perpetually gridlocked city, the ferries are often the best way to get around. Head to the dock near the Oriental Hotel (pier no. 18) and hop aboard one of the Chao Phraya Express boats. I mean "hop" literally -- the boats barely come to a complete stop at the dock, and if you hesitate, they're gone. Rides cost anywhere from 15 cents to 35 cents, depending on how far you're going. Pay on the boat and take a seat among the orangerobed monks. Many speak English and are quite eager to talk to Western visitors -- if you can hear one another above the ferries' earsplitting motors. Hop off at pier no. 11 for Wat Phra Kaew, the Temple of the Emerald Buddha. And, again, I mean "hop" quite literally.
Oslo: Inexpensive ferries ply Oslo's fjiord en route to a gaggle of beckoning islands and peninsulas. We rode one from downtown to the Bygd peninsula, which has nice beaches, an open air folk museum, ancient Viking ships and Thor Heyerdahl's KonTiki. The ferry costs about $2.15 and leaves every half hour from Oslo's Radhusbrygge 3, across from the Radhus.
San Francisco: How many of us neglect these gems? Ferries leave San Francisco's Ferry Building each day for Oakland, Sausalito, Larkspur, Vallejo and other destinations around the bay, with breathtaking views of the city.. Fares range from $2.50 to $7.50.
A couple others I have yet to ride, but which get raves from travelers:
Hong Kong: There are few bargains in Hong Kong, but one of them is the Star Ferry, which transports you across one of the world's greatest harbors for less than 25 cents U.S. There are actually three Star Ferries; Lonely Planet recommends the one running between Central (Edinburgh Palace) and Tsim Sha Tsui, on the southern tip of Kowloon. The trip takes seven minutes and leaves every five to 10 minutes between 6:30a.m. and 11:30 p.m. With names such as Morning Star, Celestial Star and Twinkling Star, Lonely Planet advises taking the ride on a clear night for the best effect. It is expected the Chinese will change the Buster Brown style outfits worn by ferry workers, but little else about this popular and essential transit system.
Venice: You can pay upwards of $60 for a gondola ride through Venice's Grand Canal, or you can lose a little romance, spend a lot less and still get a breathtaking view by taking the vaporetto. From Piazzale Roma or Tonchetto, vaporetto No. 1 crisscrosses the Grand Canal en route to San Marco and the Lido for about $1.50.Routes change frequently, so it's worth picking up a vaporetto map at any of the landing stations, the train station or Piazzale Roma.
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